Abstract
M.Tech.
The aim of my research is to discover how the garments, beadwork and accoutrements
worn and used by proponents of the ukuthwasa1 subculture manifest meaning and
significance amongst healers and initiates in the White River area, Eastern Mpumalanga.
The visual language and style of traditional healers in this region is unique in South
Africa, as it is informed by belief systems incorporating primarily the Nguni2 and the
Emandzawe3 cultures. Also, they are influenced by the combined garment styles of the
Swazi, and to a lesser extent the Shangaan and Tsonga people resident in this area. I
suggest, therefore that ukuthwasa style in this region acts as a visual repository of these
amalgamated cultures, which I visually substantiate through relevant photographic
documentation.
This study includes considerations of the way in which ritual objects, shrines and
architectural spaces are dressed and decorated. Furthermore I examine how the
beadwork and apparel aid in constructing and establishing identity and status within the
designated society, and how, over and above the dictates of their tradition, personal
preferences and different ways of teaching doctrine allow for individual interpretation. I
also examine ways in which dress and beadwork serve as a site of knowledge and
healing, and results in a fluidity of artistic expression, which defies categorisation and
constantly invigorates the existing culture. Lastly, I consider change through urbanization
and its impact on this culture.