Abstract
This study aims to address the functional, expressive and aesthetic ready to wear (RTW) needs of male to female (MTF) transgender individuals living in Johannesburg. Moreover, to discuss how MTF transgender individuals use RTW clothing to manage their appearance. It is essential to understand the RTW needs of this niche consumer market in order to cater for their needs and assist in empowering their appearance management processes.
This study used a qualitative research approach using a case study design. Six MTF transgender women residing in Johannesburg Central between the ages of 18 and 35 participated in the study. Telephonic, semi-structured interviews were conducted and analysed using thematic analysis.
Findings from the semi-structured interviews revealed that MTF transgender women living in Johannesburg, South Africa, have specific functional, expressive and aesthetic needs. The functional needs communicated by the participants included fit that allows ease of movement, and the comfort of outerwear and underwear. The expressive needs pointed out by the participants included hyper-femininity, self-esteem and confidence. The aesthetic needs voiced by participants included colour, body-to-garment relationships and fabric choices. Furthermore, the findings revealed that Johannesburg MTF transgender individuals have three fit preferences: a loose fit, a tight fit and a neutral fit or combination. The participants yielded important insights, on how poorly fitting or unsatisfied RTW needs could possibly contribute to a negative body cathexis, low self-esteem, and lack of confidence. The majority of the participants concurred that the RTW apparel stores in Johannesburg make them feel dejected about their physical appearance, and how they were unsatisfied with the available clothing. The findings also indicated that most MTF transgender participants manage their appearance by using RTW apparel to camouflage or emphasise certain parts of their bodies.
The study proposes four interventions and suggestions to help MTF transgender individuals achieve a positive body cathexis and for RTW manufacturers to improve
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RTW apparel fit. These are availability of different fits, hyper-feminine styles and colours, underwear styles and using technology to improve fit.